Amazing Armenia

Went for a drive this weekend outside of Yerevan. After a day of snowing, the sky was bright and clear and freezing cold. We stopped off at Garni, a pagan temple, that survived the ravages of invasions and occupations only to be knocked over by an earthquake. Restoration was done and a pretty good job too. Next up was Geghard Monastry which literally sends chill down your spine.When the winds howls through there you'd better be sure that you have no gaps in your pants, pockets, sleeves etc. Geghard is famous for having housed the lance that wounded Christ on the cross. Pretty impressive as its been hewn from the rock and the acoustics are phenomenal. Obviously it has attracted many folk who hope their wishes come true as they toss stones into little caveties in the rock, tie pieces of cloth to trees and make many wishes, hoping the significane of the place rubs off in the form of a winning lottery ticket, great wife or husband and the like. Got treated to my friends singing in the oldest chamber and it was a real treat--sounding like a full choir with just two voices. Amazing! We then thundered home in a little Moskowitch, avoiding the potholes and slushy snow draining across the road. At times the road seemed only wide enough for one car as we carreened down the mountain back to Yerevan. We just made it when the right brake started smoking from the strain. Well, we stopped the car in what must be the safest block in the entire Yerevan, opposite the KGB building. It is rumoured to be the tallest building in the whole of the city, with more floors below the surface than above. No one rushed to our assistance though, which maybe a relief.

An African gets a Chill

I arrived in Armenia a few weeks ago to minus 1 degrees celsius. Bit of a shock after 36 degree plus when I left South Africa... Its obvious to all I'm a foreigner. Besides being slightly darker than everyone else, the red buff-scarf is a dead give away. All the guys wear dark colours, black or dark black. Anyone wearing a different colour stands out like a sore thumb. Women negotiate the snow and ice on the most impossible high-heel boots that make me gasp for air. Ramp models around the world beware!!! Maybe that's why so many Eastern Eurpean women are in the fashion industry, training from their youth to negotiate the most treachorous of icy conditions. Long coats are very fashionable for guys, especially dragging on a Kent or Parliament cigarette, hunched over and eyeing you suspiciously as you try not falling on your arse in the slush as the weather heats up the snow and melts it.

Had my first snowy weather yersterday and it was quite bizarre. White flakes the size of coinds falling from the sky and disintegrating against my jacket. A good show nonetheless as everyone is scurring along for taxis or to catch the metro and me blocking the way looking skywards at the wonder.

One of my greatest shocks was seeing a Hummer in Yerevan. What!!! Between all the Lada's and Soviet cars, we see an example of the ultimate American salute to excessive consumerism! So the world turns...